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Submariner No Date: real vs fake

The Submariner No Date (current reference 124060) is the clean version of the dive icon: no date, no cyclops, and a full-size marker at 3 o’clock. That dial symmetry is exactly what catches replicas – many fakes are built from date-model parts. The bezel holds the same strict standard: 120 clicks, counterclockwise only.

What to check on the Submariner No Date

Model-specific zones – on top of the brand-level signs.

Cyclops-free crystal and dial symmetry

On the No Date the crystal is completely flat, and 3 o’clock carries a full-size rectangular lume plot mirroring 9 o’clock. Traces of a removed cyclops, a blanked window, or a shrunken 3 o’clock marker point to a converted date replica.

Depth rating text

On modern No Date references (14060, 114060, 124060) the dial reads “SUBMARINER 1000ft = 300m”. On the vintage 5512/5513 it reads “660ft = 200m”, and factory variants with meters first do exist – that is not a replica error. Match the wording to the reference, and judge the print itself on density and unbroken strokes.

Bezel action

Same as the Submariner Date: on modern references (from the 14060, 1990) exactly 120 clicks per rotation, counterclockwise only, zero play; on earlier vintage the bezel is bidirectional and that is normal. The lume pearl at 12 sits in a neat metal surround. Counting clicks is a hands-on test, not a photo check.

Cerachrom engraving

The black ceramic insert’s markings are recessed into the surface and platinum-coated – the relief reads at an angle. Flat printed markings are a red flag.

41 mm case proportions

The current 124060 is 41 mm with slimmer lugs than the older 40 mm 114060. Match the claimed reference to case size and lug shape: replicas often mix generations.

Where to inspect

The key zones to photograph and check on this type of item – a schematic, not a product photo.

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  1. 1Dial and printing
  2. 2Bezel and markings
  3. 3Crown
  4. 4Bracelet and links
  5. 5Serial and engraving

The difference is in the details – drag the slider

Typical differences in workmanship: stitching consistency, edge finishing, detail quality. Left – factory quality, right – common replica flaws.

The same detail with typical replica flaws: crooked stitching, glue residue, rough edges Replica
Macro detail of an item: clean factory workmanship – even stitching, tidy edges Authentic
An illustration of typical flaws (AI-generated image), not a photo of a specific product. The flaws are shown deliberately large and obvious so they read at a glance: on a good replica the same differences can be far subtler, so "mine is not this bad" does not by itself mean "authentic". In the app, the AI inspects these same zones on your photos.

Photo angles for the check

  1. 1 Dial
  2. 2 Caseback
  3. 3 Crown
  4. 4 Bracelet
  5. 5 Serial number

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FAQ

How does the No Date differ from the Submariner Date visually?

There is no date window and no cyclops lens on the crystal – 3 o’clock has a regular full-size marker. If you see a lens or traces of one on the crystal, it is not a No Date.

Should there be any aperture at all on a No Date dial?

No. The dial is fully symmetrical and time-only. Any window, filler plug, or recessed area at 3 o’clock signals a replica built on a date movement.

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