Christian Louboutin · Authentication

Pigalle 120: real vs fake

The Pigalle 120 is one of the models that cemented the red-sole cult (the sole itself appeared in the early 1990s on the Pensée): a pointed-toe pump on a 120 mm slim stiletto. Its minimalism leaves nowhere to hide – the truth is all in the toe geometry, the foot pitch, and the sole printing. Upload your photos to LegitCheck AI and check the pair in a minute.

What to check on the Pigalle 120

Model-specific zones – on top of the brand-level signs.

Red lacquer sole

The shade of red varies between authentic pairs: different factories, batches and materials, and on worn pairs a cobbler’s own lacquer after a re-dye – camera white balance shifts it further. So the color is not a verdict: look at the nature of the coating (lacquer, not rubber or paint) and at how cleanly the edge is finished. A warm tone on its own does not make a pair fake.

Sole engraving

"Christian Louboutin" and the size are printed in the clean signature font in the correct spot – replicas show uneven, over-bold, or edge-shifted lettering. On a new pair the heel tip is red, but heel taps are a consumable: replaced black or beige taps and a protective sole guard (which hides the printing) are signs of servicing, not of a fake. Judge the printing only if it has survived.

Pigalle pointed toe

The Pigalle 120 toe is sharp and elongated but slightly less extreme than the So Kate. A blunt, rounded, or short toe reveals a different last or a fake.

120 mm stiletto

The heel is a slim 120 mm stiletto with no platform, cleanly set at the correct angle. A thick, short, or crookedly attached heel is a warning sign.

Insole and lettering

The insole is embossed "Christian Louboutin … Paris" with the correct font and a crisp logo. The country in the stamp depends on the model and the year: authentic pairs come as Made in Italy, Made in Spain and Made in EU (men’s sneakers after 2012 are usually Made in EU). The worry is not "a different country" but a run-together "MADEINITALY", the wrong font, wrong letter spacing and crooked embossing.

Where to inspect

The key zones to photograph and check on this type of item – a schematic, not a product photo.

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  1. 1Insole branding
  2. 2Heel and tip
  3. 3Toe and profile
  4. 4Heel counter
  5. 5Stitching and sole

The difference is in the details – drag the slider

Typical differences in workmanship: stitching consistency, edge finishing, detail quality. Left – factory quality, right – common replica flaws.

The same detail with typical replica flaws: crooked stitching, glue residue, rough edges Replica
Macro detail of an item: clean factory workmanship – even stitching, tidy edges Authentic
An illustration of typical flaws (AI-generated image), not a photo of a specific product. The flaws are shown deliberately large and obvious so they read at a glance: on a good replica the same differences can be far subtler, so "mine is not this bad" does not by itself mean "authentic". In the app, the AI inspects these same zones on your photos.

Photo angles for the check

  1. 1 Overall view
  2. 2 Logo / tag
  3. 3 Details & stitching
  4. 4 Material

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FAQ

How does the Pigalle 120 differ from the So Kate?

The Pigalle 120 has a slightly less pointed toe and a less extreme vamp cut than the So Kate at the same 120 mm height. The So Kate feels sharper in both toe geometry and foot pitch.

The red lacquer looks uneven on the sole – is it a fake?

Minor scuffing and lacquer wear from walking are normal on an authentic pair, and the shade of red varies between genuine pairs (batches, materials, a cobbler’s re-lacquer on worn shoes), so color alone decides nothing. What should worry you is red bleeding onto the sidewall in messy streaks, or a coating that behaves like rubber or paint rather than lacquer.

Does the Pigalle come in other heel heights?

Yes – the Pigalle comes in 100 mm and 85 mm, plus the Follies version. But if a seller lists it as Pigalle 120, the heel must be a true 120 mm slim stiletto with no platform.

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